Position Out of direct sunlight and strong winds throughout the year to protect leaves against sun and wind scorch. However, good light in spring and autumn aides vigour and leaf-colour.
In winter, protect against frosts below -10°C.
Watering Acer palmatum are very thirsty prior to new flushes of growth in spring and
Summer and will need additional water.
Feeding Feed weekly with high nitrogen fertiliser as soon as leaf buds open in spring to encourage strong growth and to strengthen leaves against sun and wind scorch. Withdrawing some early fertilising produces very short internodes and finer growth required on 'finished' or developed trees.
After hardening off, feed fortnightly with a balanced feed.
Repotting Every 1 or 2 years as buds extend in spring until the tree is over 10yrs, then as necessary in a basic soil mix.
Pruning Unless extension is required to form new areas of foliage or branches, cut new growth back to one or two pairs of leaves following bursts of growth through the growing season. For trees that require short internodes, buds can be pinched out leaving 2 new opposing leaves as soon as they are visible, this will produce fine, twiggy growth with short internodes and also promote back-budding. Remove all growth with long internodes.
Leaf cutting can be carried out in mid-summer; this results in smaller leaves, better ramification and stronger autumn leaf colour. However, defoliation should only be carried out on healthy trees, never in the same year as repotting, never 2 years running and never on weaker red-leaved varieties.
Hard-pruning and formative pruning should be carried out in autumn after leaf-fall (preferably within 1 week) or during the mid-summer semi-dormant period when wounds can heal very quickly. Never prune during spring as all Acer species have a habit of bleeding profusely which can severely weaken the plant or even result in the loss of branches. Ensure all wounds are sealed.
For trees that are displayed for their bare winter silhouettes, summer pruning might be considered.
Wiring Wiring can be carried out at any time from early spring to late-autumn though each period carries its own advantages and disadvantages. Optimally, wiring should be carried out on bare branches before bud extension in spring, after leaf-cutting in mid-summer or after leaf-fall in autumn. At these points in the year the branch structure is not obscured by foliage and there is enough sap remaining in the branches to keep them supple.
Spring wiring should be carried out with care as the new buds can dislodge very easily and wire can quickly start to mark the bark after the rapid growth of spring. Trees wired after leaf-fall in autumn should be protected against heavy frosts, as branches will not heal properly until the spring growth period. During the winter, branches become exceptionally brittle and can snap without warning; only very gentle wiring should be attempted.
Propagation Sow seed as soon as ripe. Air -layers is the principal source of propagation and should be carried out as soon as spring growth hardens off in May. Cuttings strike easily but can have a high failure rate and can take 2 or 3 seasons to grow vigorously.
Pests and diseases Aphids, scale insects, caterpillars and viruses including Verticillum wilt.
Plants weakened by lack of fertilising, poor root systems, repotting, under or over watering, lack of dormancy are more likely to suffer burnt leaves.
Styles All forms except literati in small to extra-large sizes.